RV Carport & Cover Buyer's Guide: Sizes by RV Class, Prices, and Roof Styles

An RV is one of the bigger things you will ever park on your property, and sun, hail, and wind go to work on it the moment it sits still. A metal RV carport is the most cost-effective way to keep all of that off your rig between trips. The trick is buying the right size the first time, because a cover that is two feet too short or a foot too low is a mistake you live with for years.

This guide is built for buyers who already know they want covered RV storage and need real numbers to plan around. We walk through pricing by size, how to size a cover to your specific RV class, the height clearance most rigs actually need, roof styles, and the climate factors that decide how heavy your steel should be. We have been designing and quoting tubular steel covers since 1999, so the ranges below reflect what people pay.

RV Carport Prices by Size

Most open metal RV covers land somewhere between $3,500 and $14,000 installed, and where you fall in that range comes down to size, height, roof style, and your local wind and snow loads. The table below shows typical installed pricing across the industry, not ProBuilt-specific quotes. Adding enclosed ends, full sides, or a roll-up door pushes the number up from there.

Size (W x L)	Typical RV Fit	Installed Price (typical)
14x25	Class B van	$3,500 – $6,000
16x35	Class C, travel trailer	$3,750 – $7,500
18x40	Longer Class C, travel trailer, fifth wheel	$4,000 – $8,500
18x45	Class A	$4,500 – $10,000
20x45	Class A with slide-outs, toy hauler	$5,000 – $12,000
20x50	Largest Class A, multi-vehicle use	$6,500 – $14,000

A couple of things worth saying plainly. These figures assume an open cover with a vertical roof at 12 to 14 feet of clearance, the setup most RV owners actually need. The concrete pad, if you pour one, is a separate line item handled by a local contractor. And the cheapest quote is not always the cheapest building, because a low number sometimes drops the heavier gauge steel or the anchoring you need where you live. Our metal carport pricing page breaks the line items down further.

Want a real number on your exact cover?

A table can only get you close. Your RV's length, the height of your roof-mounted AC, your slide-outs, and your county's wind code decide the final figure. Request a free, itemized quote and we will price the cover you actually want, usually within 24 hours.

Metal RV Cover vs Soft RV Cover: Which One Do You Need?

Search "rv cover" and you will mostly find fabric covers that strap over the roof. Those have a place. If you store your RV for a season and want to slow down UV fade and keep leaves out of the seams, a soft cover does that job for a couple hundred dollars. The catch is they wear out, they trap moisture against the finish if they do not breathe, and they do nothing against a falling branch or a hailstorm.

A metal RV cover is a permanent steel structure your rig parks under. It costs more up front than a fabric cover. It also lasts decades instead of a few seasons, takes the hit from hail and debris instead of your roof, and lets you walk around the RV and work on it in the shade. For an RV you use regularly and store at home, the steel structure is the better long-term value, and it is what most serious owners end up buying. The rest of this guide is about that metal structure.

How to Size an RV Carport by RV Class

This is the section most buyers skip and then regret. Sizing is not one-size-fits-all, and the right dimensions depend on your RV class. Start by measuring your rig the way it actually sits: length including the bumper and any rear overhang, width with the slide-outs out, and height to the very top of the roof AC or antenna. Then add room to pull in and walk around. Here is how the common classes map to real cover sizes.

Class B Camper Van (17 to 23 feet)

The smallest of the motorized RVs, a Class B van fits comfortably under a 14x25 with standard height. Vans don't run slide-outs, but a little extra width still makes it easier to walk around and service the vehicle, so don't cut it too close. The main thing is leaving a few feet of length to park without kissing the back wall.

Class C Motorhome (22 to 32 feet)

The over-cab Class C is the most common motorhome on the road. A 16x35 covers most of them with room for the cab-over bunk and a little walking space. If yours runs longer than 30 feet or has slide-outs, step up to an 18x40 so the rig is not wedged in.

Class A Motorhome (30 to 45 feet)

These are the big bus-style rigs, and they need both length and height. Plan on a 18x45 at minimum, and a 20x45 or 20x50 if you have slide-outs or want to store anything alongside it. Class A coaches can stand around 13.5 feet tall, so height clearance matters here more than anywhere else. More on that below.

Travel Trailer (15 to 35 feet)

Travel trailers vary the most in length, so measure before you buy. A short trailer fits a 16x35, while a 30-plus-foot trailer wants a 18x40 or longer. Remember to account for the tongue and hitch in your length, since that sticks out past the body.

Fifth Wheel (25 to 45 feet)

Fifth wheels carry their weight up high over the gooseneck, which makes them the tallest rigs to shelter. An 18x40 handles the length of most, but give yourself extra height, because the front cap and any rooftop units sit well above a standard trailer. A vertical roof at 14 feet or more of clearance is the safe call for a fifth wheel.

How Tall Does an RV Carport Need to Be?

Height is where people get caught. Most RVs need 12 to 14 feet of clearance, and the largest Class A coaches and tall fifth wheels can need a hair more once you account for roof-mounted air conditioners, antennas, and satellite domes. A good rule is to measure to the tallest point on your roof and add at least a foot of breathing room so you are not threading the needle every time you park.

One distinction trips up a lot of first-time buyers. The side height (also called leg height) is the wall height where your door opening lives, and it is always lower than the peak height at the center of the roof. If your RV is 12 feet tall, a cover with a 12-foot peak will not clear it, because the usable opening at the side is shorter than that. Size to the side height, not the peak, and you will never have a surprise at the entrance.

Open, Sides-Only, or Fully Enclosed?

How much wall you want changes both the protection and the price. There are three common configurations.

• Open (roof only). Four legs and a roof. The most affordable option, and plenty if your main enemies are sun, rain, and falling debris. Wind-driven rain can still reach the rig.
• Partial sides. Panels on one or two sides, or partway down. A good middle ground that blocks the prevailing weather and adds some privacy without the cost of a full enclosure.
• Fully enclosed. A complete steel building with walls and a roll-up door, which is effectively an RV garage. This gives you security, winterization, and a lockable space you can store gear in, at the highest cost.

For most owners storing at home, an open or sides-only cover hits the sweet spot of protection and price. If you want to lock the RV up, work on it year-round, or store it through hard winters, the enclosed route is worth the jump. An RV garage gives you that full lock-and-leave building.

Roof Styles: Regular, A-Frame, and Vertical

Roof choice affects price, drainage, and how the cover handles weather. There are three options.

A regular roof has rounded corners and horizontal panels. It is the most economical and fine for mild climates and shorter covers. An A-frame (boxed eave) roof gives a cleaner, more house-like look with horizontal panels and better water shedding. A vertical roof runs the panels from the peak straight down to the eaves with a ridge cap so rain, snow, and debris slide off instead of sitting on the roof.

For anything 36 feet or longer, and for any region with real snow or rain, the vertical roof is the right call. It is the strongest of the three and the only one we recommend for a large Class A cover or a fifth wheel. Our metal building roof guide covers when each style makes sense, and you can see the difference between a vertical roof RV cover and a regular roof RV cover on our product pages.

Anchoring and Site Prep

A cover is only as solid as what holds it down. The anchoring package ties the structure to the ground hard enough that wind cannot lift or slide it, and the right anchor depends on your surface. Anchor bolts go into a concrete slab, ground anchors drive deep into bare earth, and asphalt anchors handle a paved pad. In a high-wind area, the anchoring is not an upsell, it is the difference between a cover that stays put and one that does not.

The ground underneath matters too. Your site should be level, compacted, and graded so water drains away from the legs instead of pooling at the base. Many RV owners park on a gravel pad, which is cheaper than concrete and works fine for an open cover, while a concrete slab is the move if you want a clean surface to work on or plan to enclose the building later. Our site preparation guide walks through grading, pads, and anchoring.

Climate: Wind, Snow, and Sun

Where you live should drive how your cover is built. This is the part cut-rate sellers quietly skip.

Wind. Coastal and hurricane-prone areas carry the highest wind-load requirements in the country, and a cover engineered below your local code will not pass a permit. Heavier 12-gauge framing and a proper anchoring package are what give a structure a real wind rating. If you are in a high-wind state, it is worth reading how this works in our guide to wind ratings and hurricane-rated steel buildings, and why certified buildings matter when you need to insure the structure.

Snow. Snow load is weight sitting on the roof, and it is exactly why the vertical roof exists. In snow country, the vertical panels shed the load instead of letting it pile up, and you want the framing rated for your region's ground snow load.

Sun. UV is the slow killer. It fades and cracks an RV's roof membrane, seals, and decals over the years, and shade from a steel roof is the least expensive insurance against it. Thicker 26-gauge roof sheeting also stands up to hail better than thinner 29-gauge, which is worth it in hail-prone regions. Our steel gauge guide breaks down the numbers.

Are RV Carports Worth It?

For most owners who store at home, yes. Here is the math in plain terms. An RV is a large, slowly depreciating asset, and the things that age it fastest are UV, water intrusion, and impact damage, all of which a cover blocks. Roof and seal damage from sun and standing water is one of the most common and expensive RV repairs, and a single bad hailstorm can do thousands in damage to a rig left in the open.

A metal cover is a one-time cost that protects the RV for decades and tends to add usable value to your property, unlike a fabric cover you rebuy every few seasons. If you use your RV regularly and park it at home between trips, a cover usually pays for itself in avoided repairs and a better resale. The owners who skip it are usually the ones storing a rig they rarely move, where a soft cover or a storage lot makes more sense.

Storage and Add-Ons

A cover does not have to be just a roof over your rig. A few add-ons turn it into a more useful space:

• Enclosed end or side room for tools, hoses, leveling blocks, and the gear that otherwise lives in the RV.
• Extra length in front of the rig for a workbench or a second vehicle.
• A lean-to off one side for a boat, a trailer, or yard equipment.

If you need real lockable storage, a small attached or standalone utility building pairs well with an open RV cover and keeps your gear out of the weather.

Permits and HOA Rules

Two things to check before you buy. First, most jurisdictions require a permit for a permanent steel structure, and many want stamped engineered drawings to issue it. A cover that goes up without a permit can mean fines or forced removal down the road. Second, if you live under an HOA, check the covenants for rules on RV storage, structure height, and setbacks before you order, because some associations restrict where and how tall you can build.

Neither one is a dealbreaker, you just want to know the rules going in. We help you get the certified plans your county needs, and our permit and engineering guide covers what to expect.

How ProBuilt Handles RV Covers

At [Probuilt Steel Buildings](https://www.probuiltsteel.com/ "Probuilt Steel Buildings"), we have been doing this since 1999, and our job is to be your advocate, not a broker who disappears after the deposit. We design your tubular steel RV cover to your local codes, including high-wind and Florida wind zones, lock your quote, and stay with you from the first call to the day it goes up. One ProBuilt rep, one itemized quote, one number to call. Our manufacturing partner and their crews deliver and install it.

You can browse the full lineup of metal RV covers in regular, A-frame, and vertical roof styles, step up to a fully enclosed RV garage, or look at related steel carports for other vehicles. Check coverage for your area on our service area page.

Ready to cover your rig? Contact us for a free quote and we will size it to your RV and engineer it to your local codes, no guesswork.

Get an Itemized Quote on Your RV Cover

The fastest way to a real number is to tell us your RV's size, your location, and how you want it covered. We design the structure to your local codes, lock the price, and stay with you from the first call to the day it goes up. One rep, one itemized quote, one number to call. In business since 1999.

Get your free, itemized quote and we will get you a price, usually within 24 hours.