What Size Garage Door Fits Class A, B, and C Motorhomes?
Key Takeaways
To fit your RV safely, standard garage door sizes are: Class A needs a 12'x14' door (minimum); Class B fits a standard 9'x8' door; Class C typically requires a 10'x10' door. Always add at least 12 inches of height clearance and 18 inches of width clearance for safe, easy maneuvering. The right size prevents costly damage and ensures your RV fits comfortably inside properly designed RV garages.
Why Garage Door Size is a Big Deal for Your RV?
A door that’s not the exact size that you need can lead to scrapes, dents, or a terrifying crunch. Getting the size right from the start ensures easy parking, protects your investment, and gives you peace of mind.
Let's break down exactly what you need for Class A, B, and C motorhomes:
What Are the Dimensions of Class A, B, and C Motorhomes?
Motorhome classes are defined by size and construction, which directly dictate your storage needs.
Class A Motorhomes
These are the largest, bus-like RVs. They offer the most space and luxury but require serious garage real estate.
- Length: 26-45 feet
- Width: 8-8.5 feet (not including mirrors)
- Height: 11-13+ feet
Class B Motorhomes (Camper Vans)
These are essentially upfitted vans. They are the most garage-friendly.
- Length: 17-22 feet
- Width: 7-7.5 feet
- Height: 8.5-10 feet
Class C Motorhomes
Recognizable by their overcab beds, these are mid-sized, built on truck or van chassis.
- Length: 21-35 feet
- Width: 8-8.5 feet
- Height: 10-12.5 feet
How Do You Measure Your RV and Garage Space Correctly?
Don't guess. Get your tape measure and notepad.
- Height: Measure from the ground to the absolute highest point. This is not the roof- it’s the air conditioner, satellite dome, or radio antenna. Add 12 inches minimum for clearance.
- Width: Measure the widest point, almost always the exterior mirrors. Do not retract them for this measurement. Add at least 18 inches total (9" per side) for clearance.
- Length: Know your RV's length to plan the depth of your garage, ensuring you can close the door behind it.
Pro Tip: If you have slide-outs, remember you must fully retract them before driving in. Your storage width is your RV's travel width, not its expanded width.
What Are Standard Garage Door Sizes for RVs?
Residential doors (like 8x7 or 9x7 feet) won't fit most RVs. You need an RV-specific or commercial-style door.
| Motorhome Class | Minimum Recommended Door Size | Common RV Door Size | Fits Standard Residential Door? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Class A | 12 ft wide × 14 ft high | 14′×14′ or 16′×14′ | No |
| Class B | 9 ft wide × 8 ft high | 10′×10′ (for extra ease) | Often Yes (9′×8′ is standard) |
| Class C | 10 ft wide × 10 ft high | 12′×12′ or 12′×14′ | No |
Read More: RV Carports and RV Shelters: What RV Owners Should Know Before Buying
What Factors Should You Consider When Choosing a Garage Door?
Getting the size right is just your first win. What your door is made of, how it opens, and how it's put together are what decide if you're happy with it for the next twenty years or if you'll be fixing it in five.
Height Clearance: Your Golden Rule
You need at least 1.5 feet of empty air above your RV's highest point. That's your satellite dome, your AC, whatever's up there. That buffer saves you from a nasty crunch if your driveway dips or your tires are low. If your rig is 12 and a half feet tall, you're not shopping for a 13-foot door. You're shopping for a 14-foot door. Period.
Width and Side Clearance: Don't White-Knuckle It
A door that's just wide enough is a door you'll dread backing into. You need room to straighten the wheel. Aim for an extra foot and a half of total width- so about nine inches of breathing room on each side of your mirrors. That space is your peace of mind. It turns a stressful, multi-point correction into a simple, straight-back maneuver.
Choosing the Right Garage Door Material
Your door is your first line of defense.
| Material | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Steel | Extremely durable, secure, low-maintenance, insulated options available | Can dent from impact (does not affect structural integrity) | All RV classes, especially Class A & Class C |
| Aluminum | Lightweight, rust-proof | Less durable, can dent easily | Class B storage in mild climates |
| Fiberglass | Rust-proof, performs well in salt-air environments | Can crack and offers less insulation | Coastal areas (when impact risk is low) |
| Wood | Traditional appearance, highly customizable | High maintenance, can warp or rot over time | Aesthetics over function |
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The biggest error is using the RV manufacturer's "standard" height. You must measure your actual, loaded vehicle. Another major oversight is forgetting about the door track and opener. These hang down, eating into your clearance. Always account for the door's minimum clearance height when fully open.
Conclusion
Storing your motorhome safely boils down to precise measurement and choosing a door built for the job. Don't force your RV into a space that's too small- the risk of expensive damage is too high. Invest in a correctly sized, durable door (like steel) from a supplier who understands RV requirements.
When in doubt, consult a professional installer to assess your needs. Ready to get a quote on a building and door that fits your rig perfectly? Contact Probuilt Steel Buildings. We specialize in creating clearspan RV storage solutions that protect your home on the road.
For more info, call us at (877) 754-1818 today!
Frequently Asked Questions
What size garage door is needed for a 35-foot Class A motorhome?
Forget the length, height and width are what really matter. A 35-foot RV will typically need a door at least 12 feet wide and 14 feet tall. But too many owners get burned by the word ‘typically.’ Grab a tape measure and check your actual roof height, including all rooftop gear, before you order anything.
Can a standard residential door fit a Class B RV?
In most cases, yes. The smaller Class B camper vans are usually the only RVs that can sneak into a standard garage. If your van is under 10 feet tall (including the AC unit), a typical 9-foot-wide by 8-foot-tall residential door should work. Just don't assume- double-check your own numbers.
How much extra clearance should I allow around my RV?
Don’t cut it close. Give yourself at least a solid foot of air space above the highest antenna. For width, plan on having about a hand’s width of space on each side of your mirrors. That buffer is what turns a white-knuckle parking job into an easy back-in.
Is a taller door always better for an RV garage?
It’s a smart move, but your wallet gets a vote. Building taller gives you room to upgrade to a bigger RV down the road and makes driving less stressful. But those extra feet in height do add to the cost. Think of it as an investment in future-proofing your garage.
What type of garage door opener is best for a large RV door?
Skip the standard overhead trolley opener- it dangles down and steals precious clearance. For a big RV door, you want a jackshaft opener. It mounts on the wall next to the door, completely out of the way. It’s the clean, professional choice we use on most RV bay installations.
Kevin Gray
President - Probuilt Steel Buildings
Kevin Gray, originally from Live Oak, FL, grew up on a farm where he learned the value of hard work and integrity. After a career in banking, he turned to the steel industry to serve hardworking individuals like those he grew up with. Today, he simplifies the buying process while leading a team that prioritizes honesty, value, and exceptional customer service.
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